1
0
mirror of https://github.com/danbee/danbarber.me synced 2025-03-04 08:59:10 +00:00

Fix the links

This commit is contained in:
Daniel Barber 2018-01-21 17:37:06 -05:00
parent 3fd566293e
commit 262c1ad598
Signed by: danbarber
GPG Key ID: 931D8112E0103DD8

View File

@ -48,8 +48,9 @@ I ordered a couple of switch testers from NovelKeys to try them out. I quickly
decided that the Zealio switches were the way forward as they felt much smoother decided that the Zealio switches were the way forward as they felt much smoother
to me, with a longer, rounder tactile bump compared to the MODs. to me, with a longer, rounder tactile bump compared to the MODs.
I ordered the switches directly from [ZealPC] and added Cherry stabilisers to I ordered the switches directly from
the order. [ZealPC](https://zealpc.net/collections/switches/products/zealio) and added
Cherry stabilisers to the order.
### PCB ### PCB
@ -61,7 +62,8 @@ to it's price and the fact that I don't want RGB backlighting.
I ended up going for the GH60 because it seemed like the most open option and I ended up going for the GH60 because it seemed like the most open option and
had everything I needed. It's also nice to support open hardware where possible. had everything I needed. It's also nice to support open hardware where possible.
I ordered the PCB in black from [Techkeys.us]. I ordered the PCB in black from
[Techkeys.us](https://techkeys.us/collections/accessories/products/gh60).
### Plate ### Plate
@ -74,23 +76,25 @@ securely due to the extra cut outs. After some fruitless searching I decided to
get my own plate cut out of 1.5mm stainless steel. This was relatively get my own plate cut out of 1.5mm stainless steel. This was relatively
expensive—about double a pre-cut plate—but it meant I got exactly what I wanted. expensive—about double a pre-cut plate—but it meant I got exactly what I wanted.
The plate was cut by [Lasergist]. The plate was cut by [Lasergist](http://lasergist.com).
### Keycaps ### Keycaps
Because I wanted full control over what was printed on the keycaps there was Because I wanted full control over what was printed on the keycaps there was
really only one option and that was to get them custom printed by [WASD really only one option and that was to get them custom printed by
Keyboards]. I had created a custom layout using their template for full size and [WASD Keyboards](http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keycap-set/62-key-cherry-mx-keycap-set.html).
TKL keyboards, so I took the same file and modified it for a [62 key layout]. I had created a custom layout using their template for full size and TKL
I got the modifiers in black and the alpha keys in dark grey for a Dolch style keyboards, so I took the same file and modified it for a [62 key layout]. I got
two tone look. the modifiers in black and the alpha keys in dark grey for a Dolch style two
tone look.
### Case ### Case
The last thing I needed was a case. I'd decided early on that I wanted a high The last thing I needed was a case. I'd decided early on that I wanted a high
profile, silver aluminium case that would match well with my MacBook Pro. profile, silver aluminium case that would match well with my MacBook Pro.
I ended up picking [this case] from KBDFans. It was heavier than I expected, I ended up picking [this case](https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/mechanical-keyboard-shell-anode-aluminum-shell-gh60-poker-60-mechanical-keyboard-shell?variant=36017578253)
even without the added steel weight! from KBDFans. It was heavier than I expected, even without the added steel
weight!
<figure> <figure>
{% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/DSCF7133.jpg {% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/DSCF7133.jpg
@ -108,11 +112,11 @@ putting it all together.
The first thing I needed to do was to clip and lube the stabilisers. Cherry The first thing I needed to do was to clip and lube the stabilisers. Cherry
stabilisers can feel mushy and change the feel of the keys unless they are stabilisers can feel mushy and change the feel of the keys unless they are
modded by [clipping two little plastic parts off the bottom of the inserts]. modded by [clipping two little plastic parts off the bottom of the
Lubricating them helps to reduce their influence on the key feel even more. inserts](https://youtu.be/C6hPoe3srcw). Lubricating them helps to reduce their
I used some Krytox lube that I ordered from [Techkeys.us] for this, putting influence on the key feel even more. I used some Krytox lube that I ordered from
a thin coat on the stems and on the stabilising wires where they contact the [Techkeys.us] for this, putting a thin coat on the stems and on the stabilising
plastic parts. wires where they contact the plastic parts.
Once the stabilisers were mounted onto the PCB I started placing the switches in Once the stabilisers were mounted onto the PCB I started placing the switches in
the plate, starting with the four corners so I could get the plate and PCB the plate, starting with the four corners so I could get the plate and PCB
@ -128,13 +132,13 @@ PCB.
Once the switches were all fitted it was a simple matter of soldering all the Once the switches were all fitted it was a simple matter of soldering all the
legs to the pads on the PCB. I don't own a soldering iron myself so I used the legs to the pads on the PCB. I don't own a soldering iron myself so I used the
services of the wonderful [Hack Manhattan] hack space. This was my first time services of the wonderful [Hack Manhattan](https://hackmanhattan.com) hack
doing through hole PCB soldering and I was a little nervous about messing it up space. This was my first time doing through hole PCB soldering and I was
so I was sure to read plenty of guidance on the Internet and watch a couple of a little nervous about messing it up so I was sure to read plenty of guidance on
Youtube videos. In the end it wasn't actually that tricky! The secret is using the Internet and watch a couple of Youtube videos. In the end it wasn't actually
a temperature controlled iron and being sure to heat both the leg of the switch that tricky! The secret is using a temperature controlled iron and being sure to
and the PCB pad at the same time. This is what makes the solder flow nicely and heat both the leg of the switch and the PCB pad at the same time. This is what
form a good connection. makes the solder flow nicely and form a good connection.
<figure> <figure>
{% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/IMG_6757.jpg {% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/IMG_6757.jpg
@ -143,8 +147,8 @@ form a good connection.
</figure> </figure>
After I'd soldered each row I connected the keyboard to my computer to test all After I'd soldered each row I connected the keyboard to my computer to test all
the switches I'd just soldered. I used a website called "Keyboard Tester" for the switches I'd just soldered. I used a website called [Keyboard
this. Tester](http://www.keyboardtester.com) for this.
<figure> <figure>
{% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/IMG_6758.jpg {% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/IMG_6758.jpg