diff --git a/_posts/2018-01-21-building-a-keyboard.markdown b/_posts/2018-01-21-building-a-keyboard.markdown index 5104655..e3634f7 100644 --- a/_posts/2018-01-21-building-a-keyboard.markdown +++ b/_posts/2018-01-21-building-a-keyboard.markdown @@ -48,8 +48,9 @@ I ordered a couple of switch testers from NovelKeys to try them out. I quickly decided that the Zealio switches were the way forward as they felt much smoother to me, with a longer, rounder tactile bump compared to the MODs. -I ordered the switches directly from [ZealPC] and added Cherry stabilisers to -the order. +I ordered the switches directly from +[ZealPC](https://zealpc.net/collections/switches/products/zealio) and added +Cherry stabilisers to the order. ### PCB @@ -61,7 +62,8 @@ to it's price and the fact that I don't want RGB backlighting. I ended up going for the GH60 because it seemed like the most open option and had everything I needed. It's also nice to support open hardware where possible. -I ordered the PCB in black from [Techkeys.us]. +I ordered the PCB in black from +[Techkeys.us](https://techkeys.us/collections/accessories/products/gh60). ### Plate @@ -74,23 +76,25 @@ securely due to the extra cut outs. After some fruitless searching I decided to get my own plate cut out of 1.5mm stainless steel. This was relatively expensive—about double a pre-cut plate—but it meant I got exactly what I wanted. -The plate was cut by [Lasergist]. +The plate was cut by [Lasergist](http://lasergist.com). ### Keycaps Because I wanted full control over what was printed on the keycaps there was -really only one option and that was to get them custom printed by [WASD -Keyboards]. I had created a custom layout using their template for full size and -TKL keyboards, so I took the same file and modified it for a [62 key layout]. -I got the modifiers in black and the alpha keys in dark grey for a Dolch style -two tone look. +really only one option and that was to get them custom printed by +[WASD Keyboards](http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keycap-set/62-key-cherry-mx-keycap-set.html). +I had created a custom layout using their template for full size and TKL +keyboards, so I took the same file and modified it for a [62 key layout]. I got +the modifiers in black and the alpha keys in dark grey for a Dolch style two +tone look. ### Case The last thing I needed was a case. I'd decided early on that I wanted a high profile, silver aluminium case that would match well with my MacBook Pro. -I ended up picking [this case] from KBDFans. It was heavier than I expected, -even without the added steel weight! +I ended up picking [this case](https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/mechanical-keyboard-shell-anode-aluminum-shell-gh60-poker-60-mechanical-keyboard-shell?variant=36017578253) +from KBDFans. It was heavier than I expected, even without the added steel +weight!
{% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/DSCF7133.jpg @@ -108,11 +112,11 @@ putting it all together. The first thing I needed to do was to clip and lube the stabilisers. Cherry stabilisers can feel mushy and change the feel of the keys unless they are -modded by [clipping two little plastic parts off the bottom of the inserts]. -Lubricating them helps to reduce their influence on the key feel even more. -I used some Krytox lube that I ordered from [Techkeys.us] for this, putting -a thin coat on the stems and on the stabilising wires where they contact the -plastic parts. +modded by [clipping two little plastic parts off the bottom of the +inserts](https://youtu.be/C6hPoe3srcw). Lubricating them helps to reduce their +influence on the key feel even more. I used some Krytox lube that I ordered from +[Techkeys.us] for this, putting a thin coat on the stems and on the stabilising +wires where they contact the plastic parts. Once the stabilisers were mounted onto the PCB I started placing the switches in the plate, starting with the four corners so I could get the plate and PCB @@ -128,13 +132,13 @@ PCB. Once the switches were all fitted it was a simple matter of soldering all the legs to the pads on the PCB. I don't own a soldering iron myself so I used the -services of the wonderful [Hack Manhattan] hack space. This was my first time -doing through hole PCB soldering and I was a little nervous about messing it up -so I was sure to read plenty of guidance on the Internet and watch a couple of -Youtube videos. In the end it wasn't actually that tricky! The secret is using -a temperature controlled iron and being sure to heat both the leg of the switch -and the PCB pad at the same time. This is what makes the solder flow nicely and -form a good connection. +services of the wonderful [Hack Manhattan](https://hackmanhattan.com) hack +space. This was my first time doing through hole PCB soldering and I was +a little nervous about messing it up so I was sure to read plenty of guidance on +the Internet and watch a couple of Youtube videos. In the end it wasn't actually +that tricky! The secret is using a temperature controlled iron and being sure to +heat both the leg of the switch and the PCB pad at the same time. This is what +makes the solder flow nicely and form a good connection.
{% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/IMG_6757.jpg @@ -143,8 +147,8 @@ form a good connection.
After I'd soldered each row I connected the keyboard to my computer to test all -the switches I'd just soldered. I used a website called "Keyboard Tester" for -this. +the switches I'd just soldered. I used a website called [Keyboard +Tester](http://www.keyboardtester.com) for this.
{% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/IMG_6758.jpg