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Fix the links

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Daniel Barber 2018-01-21 17:37:06 -05:00
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_posts/2018-01-21-building-a-keyboard.markdown
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@ -48,8 +48,9 @@ I ordered a couple of switch testers from NovelKeys to try them out. I quickly
decided that the Zealio switches were the way forward as they felt much smoother
to me, with a longer, rounder tactile bump compared to the MODs.
I ordered the switches directly from [ZealPC] and added Cherry stabilisers to
the order.
I ordered the switches directly from
[ZealPC](https://zealpc.net/collections/switches/products/zealio) and added
Cherry stabilisers to the order.
### PCB
@ -61,7 +62,8 @@ to it's price and the fact that I don't want RGB backlighting.
I ended up going for the GH60 because it seemed like the most open option and
had everything I needed. It's also nice to support open hardware where possible.
I ordered the PCB in black from [Techkeys.us].
I ordered the PCB in black from
[Techkeys.us](https://techkeys.us/collections/accessories/products/gh60).
### Plate
@ -74,23 +76,25 @@ securely due to the extra cut outs. After some fruitless searching I decided to
get my own plate cut out of 1.5mm stainless steel. This was relatively
expensive—about double a pre-cut plate—but it meant I got exactly what I wanted.
The plate was cut by [Lasergist].
The plate was cut by [Lasergist](http://lasergist.com).
### Keycaps
Because I wanted full control over what was printed on the keycaps there was
really only one option and that was to get them custom printed by [WASD
Keyboards]. I had created a custom layout using their template for full size and
TKL keyboards, so I took the same file and modified it for a [62 key layout].
I got the modifiers in black and the alpha keys in dark grey for a Dolch style
two tone look.
really only one option and that was to get them custom printed by
[WASD Keyboards](http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keycap-set/62-key-cherry-mx-keycap-set.html).
I had created a custom layout using their template for full size and TKL
keyboards, so I took the same file and modified it for a [62 key layout]. I got
the modifiers in black and the alpha keys in dark grey for a Dolch style two
tone look.
### Case
The last thing I needed was a case. I'd decided early on that I wanted a high
profile, silver aluminium case that would match well with my MacBook Pro.
I ended up picking [this case] from KBDFans. It was heavier than I expected,
even without the added steel weight!
I ended up picking [this case](https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/mechanical-keyboard-shell-anode-aluminum-shell-gh60-poker-60-mechanical-keyboard-shell?variant=36017578253)
from KBDFans. It was heavier than I expected, even without the added steel
weight!
<figure>
{% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/DSCF7133.jpg
@ -108,11 +112,11 @@ putting it all together.
The first thing I needed to do was to clip and lube the stabilisers. Cherry
stabilisers can feel mushy and change the feel of the keys unless they are
modded by [clipping two little plastic parts off the bottom of the inserts].
Lubricating them helps to reduce their influence on the key feel even more.
I used some Krytox lube that I ordered from [Techkeys.us] for this, putting
a thin coat on the stems and on the stabilising wires where they contact the
plastic parts.
modded by [clipping two little plastic parts off the bottom of the
inserts](https://youtu.be/C6hPoe3srcw). Lubricating them helps to reduce their
influence on the key feel even more. I used some Krytox lube that I ordered from
[Techkeys.us] for this, putting a thin coat on the stems and on the stabilising
wires where they contact the plastic parts.
Once the stabilisers were mounted onto the PCB I started placing the switches in
the plate, starting with the four corners so I could get the plate and PCB
@ -128,13 +132,13 @@ PCB.
Once the switches were all fitted it was a simple matter of soldering all the
legs to the pads on the PCB. I don't own a soldering iron myself so I used the
services of the wonderful [Hack Manhattan] hack space. This was my first time
doing through hole PCB soldering and I was a little nervous about messing it up
so I was sure to read plenty of guidance on the Internet and watch a couple of
Youtube videos. In the end it wasn't actually that tricky! The secret is using
a temperature controlled iron and being sure to heat both the leg of the switch
and the PCB pad at the same time. This is what makes the solder flow nicely and
form a good connection.
services of the wonderful [Hack Manhattan](https://hackmanhattan.com) hack
space. This was my first time doing through hole PCB soldering and I was
a little nervous about messing it up so I was sure to read plenty of guidance on
the Internet and watch a couple of Youtube videos. In the end it wasn't actually
that tricky! The secret is using a temperature controlled iron and being sure to
heat both the leg of the switch and the PCB pad at the same time. This is what
makes the solder flow nicely and form a good connection.
<figure>
{% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/IMG_6757.jpg
@ -143,8 +147,8 @@ form a good connection.
</figure>
After I'd soldered each row I connected the keyboard to my computer to test all
the switches I'd just soldered. I used a website called "Keyboard Tester" for
this.
the switches I'd just soldered. I used a website called [Keyboard
Tester](http://www.keyboardtester.com) for this.
<figure>
{% picture full-width blog/building-a-keyboard/IMG_6758.jpg